By Hubert Keller

Recognized chef, Hubert Keller, stocks his kin Christmas traditions and 20 of his favourite recipes from his boyhood domestic of Alsace, France.

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Extra resources for Hubert Keller's Christmas in Alsace

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This reflects the moment, which some have described as one of postmodern ambiguity, where traditional belief systems and experts have lost their authority in a period of uncertainty. It Andrews 01 chap01 27 29/7/08 16:35:36 28 T H E S L O W FO O D S T O RY is not surprising that Slow Food grew in this era when the BSE crisis and the rise of GM crops forced many issues onto the agenda. Slow Food has put its faith in traditional knowledge, the artisan skills and wisdom of the producer, and the taste buds of the self-taught gastronome.

With a presence in the Scottish Highlands and mid Wales, perhaps ‘Middle Britain’ would be a more accurate term, but the heart of Slow Food in the UK is the rural shires. The Six British Presidia products, those deemed to be of exceptional quality and derived from artisan wisdom, knowledge and experience learned over generations, are located deep in the navel of middle England. They include ‘Three Counties Perry’, a drink made from fermented juice of bitter perry pears and produced in Herefordshire, Worcestershire and Gloucestershire; Old Gloucester beef, made from ancient and endangered traditional breeds; Artisan Somerset Cheddar, made from fresh local raw milk; Single and Double Gloucester cheese; Cornish pilchards and sardines produced since 1555 and mainly exported to Italy, but now down to its last single producer; and Fal River oysters from Truro.

Despite the absence of the British Left from Slow Food, it is not difficult to find a radical edge to the movement in Britain. This radicalism, found in growing numbers of discerning consumers, can be understood to some degree as the critical voice of Middle England. This is not the Middle England immortalised by New Labour spin doctors, a rather static homogeneous entity, assumed to be Daily Mail reading, illiberal and intolerant. 22 In his BBC Radio 4 series, ‘Looking for Middle England’, Ian Hislop visited Ludlow in Shropshire where he found the Ludlow Civic Society opposing housing development on green spaces and much evidence of a slower pace of life.

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